Mike from Korea has asked me about what “cultivated variety” or c.v. means tacked onto the end of a species name.

Q: I don’t exaclty understand what the “cultivated varitety” means.

Regards

Mike

A: Mike-

There are 2 basic ways hybrids are made:

1. Cross pollinate 2 known plants, and create what is known as a “hybrid,” i.e. graptoveria is a hybrid between a graptopetalum and an echeveria.

2. Select a naturally occuring variation. This is then called a “cultivated variety”.

For instance, there are many hundreds of hybrid echeveria species, some of which are “c.v.” or “cultivated varieties.”

If we don’t know what it is, we use the terms hybrid or c.v. interchangeably, since they are both just guesses. In general whichever way it was created, it is a hybrid.

Peter

Q: Dear Cactus Blog,

First off I have to say that I’ve really enjoyed your Cactus Blog ever since I stumbled across it a little over a year ago! I’m hoping you can help me with some cacti I recently purchased from one of the local home centers. The clerk explained to me that a large percentage of their cacti and succulents were on clearance because a former employee had insisted on watering them along with the regular plants, and as a result the plants were ailing. Always one to appraise the bargain plants, I couldn’t resist bringing home a pot with two 4′ cacti -despite the unsettling spots on them. I figured I’d likely never have a chance to get this size of cacti at this price, and if they didn’t make I wouldn’t be out too much. But please help me keep these gorgeous plants!

I’ve attached pictures of the cacti and the troublesome spots. The spot on one (cactiB.jpg) of them seems drier and more firm and hasn’t changed in the two weeks I’ve had it. However, the spot on the other seems dark, a bit soft, and has grown -today I even noticed what looks like white mold.

The clerk explained that the plants hadn’t been watered since the water-happy employee had left, and I haven’t watered it at all either -I even raked some of the soil away from the bottoms of the stems. It is currently in our back porch, a sheltered area, but roughly same temperature as the outdoors. It currently only receives filtered southern light (the only other room with southern exposure is also unheated).

Any recommendations you could make would be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks in advance,

Michelle

P.S. It was labeled as Trzo. Euphorbia Amak Variegata “Golden Candelabra Plant”, is that correct? What does “Trzo.” stand for?

A: Michelle,

Since I don’t know where you are, I can’t tell you if they should be indoors or out, but we don’t let our Euphorbia “ammak”s get below freezing.

As for the damage, I’m afraid to say it is rot. The rot that is at the base of the plant that’s molding is bad. You need to cut the plant off above the rot, throw out the base, and let the top part heal. Spray with household peroxide, let dry for 2 weeks, and then place in fresh clean dry soil.

The rot up higher can be trimmed out and cleaned with peroxide and kept dry until it heals.

Please note that euphorbia sap is caustic. Please wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. If you get it on you, don’t touch your face, and wash it off immediately.

Long term the plant will be happier in a terra cotta pot with high quality cactus soil.

Finally, the “Trzo” designation is the name of the pot style (i.e. “terrazzo”).

Peter

Follow-up to <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1874&amp;entry_id=1704" title="https://cactusjungle.com/blog/archives/1702-We-Get-Questions.html" onmouseover="window.status=’https://cactusjungle.com/blog/archives/1702-We-Get-Questions.html’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">yesterday’s question</a> about barrel cactus, and how to tell if they’re alive.<br /><br />Q: It seems firm, here’s two pixs. Thank you so much for your help! I lost my Mom, her plants are my daily visit with her.<br />
<br />
Susan<br /><br /><img width="396" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/barrelcactus002.jpg" /><br /><br />A: Susan,<br />
The plant is still alive. It is in desperate need of getting repotted into a larger pot with fresh cactus soil. There are also some spots of rot on the plant (the soft brown spots) and you should spray them with a fungicide, like Neem oil.<br />
<br />
Good Luck,<br />
Peter<br /><br /><br />
<br /><a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/archives/1704-guid.html#extended">Continue reading "We Get Follow-ups"</a>

Q: Hello,

I spoke with someone from your store on the phone this afternoon about a problem with one of my cacti. They suggested that I email a closeup of the affected cactus. This yellowish covering is now over much of the surface area of the plant. I’d appreciate any suggestions for treating the problem. Thanks,

Mark

A: Mark,

It does indeed look like a fungal infection of “Rust”. Your plant should be treated with a fungicide as soon as possible. Under normal situations I would recommend spraying the plant with a 1-2% Neem Oil solution, an effective, natural fungicide that has limited toxicity to humans and pets and I think you should start with it. Spray liberally with Neem to the point of run off and keep your plant out of direct light for a few days. Reapply after a week. It may take several treatments to kill off the fungus. There will be scaring of the plant tissue, but the orange should fade. Neem Oil is available in 100% that you mix yourself or a ready to use diluted spray, either one will work.

Unfortunately it may be that your plant is so infected with rust, that you may need to resort to something nastier to save your plant. But the systemic fungicides should only be used at last resort and handled with extreme caution, they are designed to cross the cell barrier and do not

care if it is a plant’s cell or your skin cell. If you go that route use chemical resistant gloves and follow the directions completely. Systemics are dangerous and like I said only to be used at last resort.

Good luck,

Hap

Q: I have a barrel cactus about 4" x 4". It has looked the same for what seems like years, how can I tell it’s alive?<br />
<br />
Björnvik <br />
<br />
A: You can gently poke it with a pencil, and if it gives resistance, then it is alive.<br />
Or you could send us a clear closeup photo and we can take a look.<br />
<br />
Some barrels are miniatures and won’t get any bigger (like the gymnocalyciums) while others really do want to grow much bigger (like the ferocactuses)<br />
<br />
If it is still alive and the right species and you want it to grow bigger, you should probably repot it into a 6"-8" terra cotta pot with fresh well-draining cactus soil (which we do sell) in Spring, and make sure it is getting at least 4 hours of direct afternoon sun. Water it every 3 weeks.<br />
<br />
Good Luck,<br />
Peter<br /><br />

It’s Aloe dichotoma time in Massachusetts:<br /><br />Q: Hi, my name is Marc and I live in Massachusetts. I have a Aloe dichotoma as a house plant and it looks good. I have to battle mealy bug once in a while but other than that it is a really easy plant. I do notice that the very tips of some of the leaves seems to dry out, turn brown all awhile the rest of the leave looks healthy. Do I have to be concerned? I am not sure if this is a disease. I water the plant about 2 x a week. It is in very well drained soil (sand and light compost mix)and I suspect the plant is somewhat or at the beginning stages of being root bound. So I do not think I am rotting t roots with too much water. How much light should this plant receive? Lastly, I know that when it is winter here it is summer in their native country (S. Africa). Do I need to do any additional care or timing of the care to coincide with the seasons of the southern hemisphere? Look forward to your response!<br />
Do you ship plants to the East Coast?<br />
Regards,<br />
Marc<br /><br />A: Marc,<br />
<br />
We water Aloe dichotama every two to three weeks in the summer and very little in the winter. They are heat loving dry desert plants. But if yours is growing and doing well I wouldn’t really suggest changing your routine. Ours are mostly outside year round so they take different care than indoor plants. While leaf tip browning is pretty common in Aloes, it is a sign of stress, but if it isn’t too bad don’t worry about it too much.<br />
<br />
If you are having mealy-bug problems make sure you monitor the roots as they will get in the soil where you can’t see them and suck all the life out of your plants. And leaf tip die off is a sign of stress. Aloe dichotoma is more or less dormant in winter, keep it nearly totally dry particularly if it is somewhere cool (at or around 40°F) while it is dormant. Since the nursery is in a winter rainfall area we grow our Aloe dichotoma in gravely soil and in rose pots (extra tall Terra Cotta) Tall pots drain fast because of the column weight of the water and with the taller sided have more air exposure for the clay to dry out.<br />
<br />
And yes we ship plants to the East Coast.<br />
<br />
Good luck,<br />
Hap<br /><br />

Q: Hi,<br />
We had a misfortune today with our Aloe plicatilis that we purchased from you guys. We came home and it had broken from the pot. The root and part of the trunk is still attached in the potted soil. I placed it in water, but I am not sure if it will survive!!!<br />
Please help!<br />
Thank you<br />
Tanya<br /><br />A: Tanya,<br />
<br />
I am sorry to hear your Aloe is damaged, hopefully it can be saved. Please take it out of the water, succulents like to be dry when healing from an injury.<br />
<br />
Let it dry off and clean any part of the stem that is broken with household Hydrogen-Peroxide. Give it a week or two in a warm dry place and re-pot in dry soil. You can use a stake to hold in upright while it regrows roots. It may take a few months to grow new roots. Do not water for two to three weeks after replanting.<br />
<br />
You can also bring it buy the nursery and we will see what we can do to speed it on its way to recovery.<br />
<br />
Take care,<br />
Hap<br /><br />

An interesting mystery:<br /><br />Q: Hi! <br />
Bumped into your website today, and saw that you answer cactus/succulent questions, so I figured maybe you could help me ID this plant. It’s a seedling that is growing in the pot with my haworthia. It was already in the pot when I bought the haworthia a year ago, so all I know is that it’s over a year old. When I got it, the seedling was, I think, less than half an inch tall. It had two small round leaves at the very bottom (would those be cotelydons?), and one of them is still there, but the other fell off. No other leaves or spines though. Now it’s a bit under two inches tall, and it did most of the growing in the summer. I don’t know how to describe the plant, besides that it’s flat, so I attached two pictures. I also dug it out a while back, to see what kind of roots it has, and it pretty much has just one root that goes straight down, about half an inch long. Not much in terms of small rootage. It seems to do fine with the same light and watering that the haworthia gets, but then I have no idea what it is and what it’s supposed to look like… For all I know it was supposed to be 10′ tall by now, and all covered in deadly spines or huge pink flowers. Or deadly pink flowers. Or something.<br />
Do you know what it could be?<br />
Thanks in advance!<br />
-Lena<br /><br /><img width="324" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/plant_id_1.jpg" /><br /><br />A: Lena,<br />
I love cool mysteries! But I have to say I am not sure if I can help you. My best wild guess is perhaps it is a Pedilanthus of some sort, perhaps one of the Pedilanthus tithymaloides sub species. Perhaps it will get some sort of leaf or bloom in the spring and we can try again.<br />
<br />
Hap<br /><br />

Q: Hello- Do you carry a form of cactus called a “forever flower” it has small pink flowers oval leaves and grows tall and skinny. If you are familiar I would like to know the full scientific name and where they are from. If you can help out with these info. that would be great.

thanks for your time.

Kendra

A: Kendra,

I am not familiar with “Forever Flower” as a common name, however from

your description I am guessing you are talking about Euphorbia milli, a

very cool succulent native to Madagascar. It is in the family

Euphorbiaceae, so it is not a cactus, but a similar looking succulent.

There are a number of hybrid clones that come in a rainbow of bloom

colors and sizes. They are wonderful plants as they bloom almost

non-stop year round. We grow the standard species, as well as some of

the “Thai hybrids” that have larger, showier blooms. Links here, here, here and here.

Please look over the links and see if this is the plant you are

interested in.

Hap

Q: Hey there–<br /><br />I have two cacti whose scientific names have evaded me for a while. The first one I saved from Walgreens– he’s grown from a little under half a foot to a little over a foot or more. The other one I got at a Lowes, but didn’t come with a tag saying what kind of cactus.<br /><br /><img width="324" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/IDRalph.jpg" /> <br /><br />The large green one in the photos attached is the one I’m most curious about, seeing as the other seems easier to find and identify.<br /><br /><img width="304" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/IDLoretta.jpg" /><br /><br />Thanks!<br />Natalie<br /><br />A: Natalie,<br /><br />&quot;Ralph&quot; is a Cereus hildmannianus monstrose, commonly called &quot;Fairy Castle Cactus&quot;. &quot;Loretta&quot;; is a grafted Gymnocalycium mihanovichii &quot;Hibotan&quot;, or Moon Cactus or Ruby Ball. It’s grafted because it does not have the ability to make it’s own food, as the chlorophyll was irradiated out of it, to make it that &quot;out of this world color&quot; the green hylocerues below the red ball is feeding the mutant above… the true species is sort of a terra cotta red with a green stripes. <br /><br />I hope that helps<br />Take care<br />Hap<br /><br />

Q: Hello,<br />
We’ve exchanged vm regarding the aloe plant I received for Christmas that simply isn’t doing well. I have watered it only once since receiving it and as you can see from the photos, the entire base of the plant seems moldy and rotten. The plant appears to be doing well from the perspective of the upper leaves. Is there anything that could be done on your end as pruning the bottom leaves seems odd and difficult given the nature of thick leaves, etc?<br />
<br />
Best regards,<br />
Sandra<br /><br /><img width="324" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/IMG_1557.JPG" /><br /><br />A: Sandra,<br />
<br />
Overall the Aloe looks fine. All succulents will lose bottom leaves, especially in the winter, and that is what is happening here. However, since the bottom leaves are so big and thick it just seems bad when they turn black and die off, but it is normal. We recommend cutting them out; you can cut the leaf edge as close in to the stock as possible and then gently pull and usually the leaf will come right off. If you are unsure how to do this, or still would like us to take a look at it, we can do that. Just bring the plant on by and we’ll take a look for you.<br />
<br />
Peter<br />
<br />
Followup Question after the break… <br /><br /><br />
<br />
<br /><a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/archives/1638-guid.html#extended">Continue reading "We Get Questions"</a>

Q: Can cactus be found growing in Oregon’s nature or are the conditions not right? Hopefully you could align me with some hikes but I’m still a bit doubtful it even exists.<br />
Thank You,<br />
Andrew<br /><br />A: Andrew,<br />
<br />
There are several species of Opuntia as well as other genus of Cacti (Pediocactus and others) that grow throughout Eastern Oregon. I have seen Opuntia fragilis as well as a much larger mystery prickly pear (Opuntia polyacantha?) while hiking in the hills south and well east of Salem… but that was about twenty years ago… so other than to tell you it was somewhere way up &quot;Thomas Creek&quot; if my memory is not confusing that hike with where the best rope swing and swimming hole is…<br />
<br />
You should check with the Oregon Cactus &amp;Succulent Society:<br />
<br />
Meets: Sacred Heart Villa, 3911 SE Milwaukee, Portland, Oregon. 7pm every 3rd Thursday (except December, June, July, and August when meetings, locations, and times will be announced.<br />
<br />
They should be able to tell you where to hike to see some of the native cacti.<br />
Good Luck,<br />
Hap<br /><br />

Q: Hello. I bought a Macodes petula orchid from you about a year ago. I am having a hard time finding information about how to care for it online. It has not grown much and doesn’t usually have more than two leaves. Is this normal? I am watering once a week, and I keep it out of direct sun but in a somewhat lighted place. Can it get too cold near a window?<br />
Anyway, if you can give me any care instructions for it I would be extremely grateful! It is one of my favorite plants.<br />
Thank you!<br />
Tasha<br /><br />A: Tasha,<br />
These are a tricky plant. We find they often will have only 2 to 3 leaves, with old ones dying as new ones grow. Generally, they want bright indirect light only. Water once a week, letting it drain. And mist the leaves every 2-3 days. If it is near a window in winter, keep it at least 4&quot; from the glass.<br />
If it’s been a year, now would be a good time to fertilize with something like liquid kelp (actually 2-3 times per year would be good). You may also want to use a bloom food in March. And repotting into fresh orchid soil yearly is always a good idea.<br />
Peter<br /><br /><br />

Q: Hello,<br />
<br />
I came across your blog regarding info for Jatropha Podagica and found it very helpful. I did, however, have a question. I live in the NE, and have recently purchased seeds. I was wondering when is the best time to plant them? Any info you may have would be great. Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Steve<br /><br />A: Steve,<br />
<br />
If you are starting indoors, under lights it does not matter when you start your Jatropha. We start ours through out the year. We use High Output Fluorescent lights with bottom-heat with good results. Jatropha seems to want 75-80 degrees soil temp. and to sprout under bright light. Nicking the seed coat or rubbing on course sand paper usually speeds up germination. We press the seed in to moist cactus and succulent soil and put a half inch layer of horticultural charcoal on top. It seems to inhibit algae and fungal problems.<br />
<br />
Good luck,<br />
Hap<br /><br />

Q: Peter,<br />
Since you are experiencing a dearth of questons and have had to resort to asking and answering them yourself, I’ll help you out. <br />
What source do you suggest to keep up with all the latest reclassifications of cacti? Also, what is your very favorite cactus and why?<br />
Inquiring minds want to know.<br />
<a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1766&amp;entry_id=1573" title="http://waterwhendry.blogspot.com" onmouseover="window.status=’http://waterwhendry.blogspot.com’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">Aiyana</a><br /><br />A: Aiyana-<br />
Thanks for the questions! <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1767&amp;entry_id=1573" title="/archives/1569-Another-Not-Question.html" onmouseover="window.status=’/archives/1569-Another-Not-Question.html’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">I wrote my own questions</a> really just for the fun of it, to spice up the blog.<br />
But for your questions:<br />
1. We use &quot;The Cactus Family&quot; by Edward Anderson (2001), which we also used to sell but it is now out of print. For recent name changes, we just go with the flow, changing to current names when it suits us, and using older names too. Basically, we don’t always agree with new names and don’t try to keep on top of it in the short term (sometimes they change back!) but wait ’til it feels right to us. The Cactus and Succulent Society of America (CSSA) keeps up with changes <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1768&amp;entry_id=1573" title="http://www.cssainc.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=section&id=3&Itemid=270" onmouseover="window.status=’http://www.cssainc.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=section&id=3&Itemid=270′;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">in their journal</a>. <br />
2. My favorite cactus changes depending on the season. We have so many we grow from little seedlings to big guys and then someone comes in and buys it! It’s really about the challenge of growing them into specimens. But I do like the <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1769&amp;entry_id=1573" title="http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/operculicarya_decaryi.htm" onmouseover="window.status=’http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/operculicarya_decaryi.htm’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">Operculicarya decaryi </a>(not a cactus) with its tiny shiny leaves and its great name (say it out loud), and the blooms on the <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1770&amp;entry_id=1573" title="http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/ortegocactus_macdougallii.html" onmouseover="window.status=’http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/ortegocactus_macdougallii.html’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">Ortegocactus macdougallii</a>, although it is a pain to grow and must have limestone in its soil mix.<br />
-Peter<br /><br />

Today’s question comes from me. You didn’t send it in, and neither did that other person reading this small corner of the blogosphere. So I emailed it to myself and then I replied to myself and then I posted it right here.<br /><br />Q: Can you identify this plant for me? It’s mostly green, with spines on all sides. It’s about 4&quot; across, but taller.<br /><br />Thank you,<br />Peter<br /><br />A: It’s a <a href="https://cactusjungle.com/archives/blog/exit.php?url_id=1760&amp;entry_id=1565" title="http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/euphorbia_trigona.htm" onmouseover="window.status=’http://cactusjungle.com/plant_pages/euphorbia_trigona.htm’;return true;" onmouseout="window.status=”;return true;">Euphorbia trigona.</a> As it grows, it can get up to 6&quot; around, and will eventually be a 20′ tall tree if planted in the ground, which we don’t recommend here in the Bay Area. <br /><br />If you do plant it in the ground in this area, you will need to protect the growing tips when it gets close to freezing. We recommend a styrofoam cup on the top of each branch. <br /><br />A frost blanket will work too, but we recently created a tent out of one around a tall cactus in a pot, and then the 65mph winds came blowing through the area last week and the tent became more of a sail than a tent and the plant blew over. Luckily, we know enough to stay away from the nursery until wind storms are over, what with the spiny cactus and all.<br /><br />Hope that helps,<br />Peter<br /><br />

It’s about watering your indoor succulents in winter, with pictures!<br /><br />Q: hi!<br />
<br />
would you mind reminding me whether i should stop watering the two succulents in the attached photo for the winter — and, if so, for how long?<br />
<br />
also, same question for the two aloes in the other attached photo.<br />
<br />
thanks so much for your help!<br />
mats h<br /><br /><img width="432" hspace="5" height="324" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/aloe-lo.jpg" /><br /><br />A: Hello Mats,<br />
<br />
The two Aloes would like regular winter water, the Pachypodium saundersii should be watered less, 4 to 6 weeks between water during the winter should be fine.<br />
<br />
Hap<br /><br /><img width="324" hspace="5" height="432" border="2" src="/blog/uploads/misc/succulents-lo.jpg" /><br /><br />