Hi!

I recently purchased some Ultra Soil and noticed that it contained lots of seeds. Do you know what these might be (photo attached)? The seeds in the photo are from one trowel-full of soil.

Thanks!
TVN

Tracy,

The seeds are “Grape Pomace” which is the seeds and skin solids of wine grapes left over after the “wine crush”. It is used as an organic way to adjust the pH of the soil and compost. It is a long lasting component in the rice hull compost we use in our soil blend, the rice hulls which are the bulk of the compost, are the little slivers that sort of look like tiny canoes that you can see in our mix. Occasionally we also have to add additional Pomace to our finished blend, if the lava and coconut coir we use in the soil mix, are not acid enough to get the pH where we want it. As the Pomace breaks down it also gives micro-nutrients to the plants. Grape Pomace is also great to use on blueberries, rhododendrons and azaleas because it acidifies the soil. And since it is a local by-product it also helps us fulfill our goals of sustainability.

Take care,
Hap

Can a Venus flytrap thrive outdoors all year in the foggy west side of Daly City? There are days where there is plenty of sun, but the temps. are usually around 50’s-60s. Do I need a terrarium?

Michael

Michael,
Venus Flytraps are hardy in much colder climates than ours. They do require plenty of sun, and must be planted in a bog environment with slightly acidic soil.

But just to be clear, hardy outside means it will die back to the ground every winter, and spring up new every spring, fresh and green and ready to eat bugs.
Peter

Editors Note: Daly City is just south of San Francisco.

In Olympia, they ask the following question,

Did you know one of the newest gardening trends is growing exotic indoor plants, like orchids, ferns and succulents?

Well? Did you? I wonder which succulents they consider exotic.

…that we can’t answer, so they supply their own answers!

Dear madam, sir,

Thank you for your wonderful website. I especially visited it while trying to identify a newly aquired plant. I think it is a type of euphorbia (it has milky sap) but I am not sure. This specimen is approximately 70 cm tall and 6cm thick. It has a mintgreen color and the blooming stalks are fuchsia colored. Unfortunately the flowers have whithered but they seem to have been pinkish. I have visited a lot of sites but haven’t been able to identify it. Could you help me with this problem?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Jan

Jan,
I am sad to have to admit I haven’t been able to identify your Euphorbia. It is an amazing looking plant and there is nothing like it in my books. At least with such large bloom stems… so you may have to check your local science library and see if they have a complete set of Euporbiacea Journals and slog through to see if you can find it. Of course it could be a cool hybrid and then it will be even harder to identify.
Good Luck,
Hap

And then the unthinkable happened. Jan found the answer without us!

Hap,

Thanks for your kind reply. I have used your suggestion and contacted the head of the national herbarium in Leiden. He knew the plant to be a monadenium spectabile (aka euphorbia spectabile).

Thanks again,
Jan

Spectabile, indeed.

Hi Hap and Peter
Attached are a couple pictures of the cactus. I was wondering if you could help me figure out what the problem is? I don’t know what kind they are. They get plenty of light. They are outdoors (obviously). They are wilted and a reddish-orange color.

Thanks
Jodi

Jodi,
They look like they are just in “winter mode”, some hardy prickly pear dump all their water, go limp and weird colors to concentrate their sugars, so they can survive freezing during the winter. They should perk up as spring progresses and they wake up for spring growth.
Hap

(Editor’s Note: I’ll bet you didn’t see that answer coming.)

I was a big dingus and left my super cool cactus buddy in the rain. 🙁 He looks sort of light green now with some yellow places. Did I kill it or can this be fixed? He’s inside right now, draining.

Bean

Bean,

Let him dry out, keep him warm and watch the yellow patches. Yellow is s sign of stress as well as a the start of an infection. Don’t water for 3 or 4 weeks. You might want to treat with Neem Oil in a 1% solution after it has dried out. Either use “ready to use’ or mix about a tsp of neem in a quart of warm water with a few drops of hand soap or glyserine to help emmusify, shake well and then spray all the plant and let the runnoff soak in to the soil. Keep away from the sun for a day or two. Neem is effective, natural and in the “chemical warfare class” so it is something you can use without needing a spacesuit to apply.

Good luck,
Hap

I have a small cactus, only about an inch and a half tall. I left it on my radiator while I went home for spring break, and it curved in a right angle towards the window. Thinking it wanted light, i put it on the sill above the radiator, where it proceeded to turn a pale, bleached color. I would like to keep this plant living the best I can, and am wondering now if it should be watered more/less, and how much light I should be giving it.

Thank you,
David

David,
It sounds like your cactus got a sunburn. It depends on how severe it was as to whether or not it will come out of it. Can you send us a picture?

As for watering, in general we recommend watering every 2 to 3 weeks, drenching the pot and letting it drain away. Cactus like lots of light, so a west or south facing window is best. Always keep it a few inches away from the glass because heat can build up at the surface. Also, as you’ve discovered, moving a cactus, or any plant, from low light directly to full sun can cause a sunburn.
Peter

We like questions from all over the world.

Interesting addition to this morning’s post about a hylocereus in habitat, we now get a little bit of hylocereus used as a root stock for a grafted cactus.

hello. im elya and i need ur help!! i have a hibotan cactus. its a cactus left by my late best friend. so it really means a lot to me. i hope u can help me.

well,firstly,i have no idea whatsoever on how to take care a cactus. in fact,i just know that its called hibotan cactus today when i searched the net. u see im a university student and im very busy. so i really dont schedule when i water it. and at first i just leave it in my room. and i am a very very careless person. i knocked it down for 3 times already i think. the rest are done by the wind. and when its knocked down,usually it will fall out of the pot. with the soil still attached to the cactus. i know i know,im very careless.. but yeah. i still love it so so much though. hmm.. anyway,in 3,4 days now,the cactus’ head is going black!!!! i think i over water it i guess!!! here’s the picture of it. i hope it can still be saved. oh yes,my university is kinda in a rural area and i dont even know if theres a gardening store nearby. i hope its still saveable……

hope to hear you soon.

p/s: please reply to my email. and u can post it in the blog if you like. thank you. hope in hearing you soon.

— elya,Malaysia

Elya,
What you have is a grafted and irradiated cactus on top of a hylocereus base. The colorful grafted top portion is dead and probably just came to the end of its mutated lifespan. It was a nice touch of color while it lasted.

However, the hylocereus base can survive and grow into an amazing plant. I recommend you cut off the dead portion, spray the cut end with hydrogen peroxide to help it heal, and repot the rooted base in fresh, fast draining cactus soil. Keep dry, and don’t water for a couple weeks.

Good luck
Peter

Hello,

Please take a look at my Euphorbia trigona and give me an advise.

I am concern with spots, overall unhealthy look, slow growth and size of a current planter.
Thank you.
Sincerely, Natalie

Natalie,
Your Euphorbia is under-potted, and is showing signs of what look to me like both frost damage and possibly some sunburn. Overall the plant looks pretty good, but repotting to a bigger terra cotta pot and out of the plastic around the end of March, but not before, should help. Also, we recommend having it indoor in the winter, and out of full sun.
Let us know if you have any other questions
Peter

Sometimes I’m more diplomatic than other times. This is not one of those times.

Hi there,
My name’s Diane and I’m e-mailing you from Toronto.

A friend of mine gave me this cute little plant for my birthday two days ago. I’ve absolutely no clue what it is. I tried doing a Google search on my own, but no luck.

I’ve attached a few close-up pictures of the leaves. I asked Mr Subjunctive – he thinks it might be a kalanchoe of some sort, but he wasn’t sure.

What do you think? Do you think it’s a succulent of some sort? If you’ve got any clue, I’d appreciate it … or if you don’t know, but know someone who might, please let me know.

Thanks so much!

Diane,
Your plant is a Kalanchoe blossfeldiana.

I thought you might also want to know that your camera is very good at getting the closeups. In fact, it’s so good, that one can see all the little aphids infesting the plant. We recommend spraying with neem oil. You may also need to drench the soil.

Good luck,
Peter

A neighbor gave me some cuttings from a couple of their cactus plants. Can you help me ID? I have an idea on the cactus on the right side, but for the sake of not sounding stupid ill defer to your expertise. The one on the left I can’t don’t have a clue. Your help is greatly appreciated.

I also have a Ferocactus with what looks to be some black fungus or mold or bug in the deep ridges, new growth and on the white hairy areoles. I don’t have a picture at this time, but can provide one if necessary. The cactus is firm and very healthy otherwise. I have been hitting it with Neem weekly which seems to be working fine. The black stuff can be easily wiped away with a paper towel and/or soft brush. I was also considering repotting it but have not done so thinking that winter time is not the best time to do so?

Any input you have is of course appreciated.

Thanks
Matt

Matt,

The smaller left hand cut, looks like it is a type of Cylindropuntia fulgida, most likely the variety Cylindropuntia fulgida mammillata. The larger one is Cereus peruviana monstrose. On your Ferocactus, I would not repot until late March-April, cactus are dormant over the winter so they don’t like root disturbance and it can lead to infection in cool wet weather. If you have treated a few times with Neem I would just take a soft small artist brush and clean the skin with warm soapy water and let it dry out. Hopefully it is just sooty-mold and will clean right off.

Good luck,
Hap

Hap,

Thanks a TON! I thought the one was a Cereus Monstrose for sure, but the Cylindropuntia has been difficult to ID. That’s part of the fun I know.

My Ferocactus is soooo cool. I’ll send a photo some time. The black stuff seems pretty harmless, and ill get it cleaned up and replanted early spring.

Thanks again

Matt

Hello,

I don’t know if you can help us or not. But we are going to remodel our back yard and want to sell this giant cactus that is in it. It is over 15 feet tall. Do you have any idea who would want to buy it in California? We live in Palm Springs.

Here is a picture. I can take a better one if you need it.

Sincerely,

Stan

Stan,
Your cactus is a Saguaro, and at 15 ft. it weighs a ton or more. It would take special equipment to remove it. I would recommend you check with your local cactus society for Saguaro rescue groups.
Peter

Well that wasn’t very helpful of me. Maybe you can help Stan out and walk away with a 15 ft. saguaro too.

We have a little cactus our then ten year old, now 23 year old, son bought while we were in Texas.  it is about seven inches tall, in a little terra cota pot, has sent out, in the past year, two little tiny baby branches that are now nestled in the pot, too.  The initial plant has fallen out of the little pot last month while we were moving,now the bottom of it looks sickly to me, some yellowish coloration coming in. How do I nurse it back to full health??

Set hubby’s toothbrush next to it for your size referencing! What kind of cactus is it, and must I cut it apart?? to save it?

thanks much… I look forward to your insight and guidance!
Deb

Deb,
The cactus needs to get into a bigger pot with fresh soil. It is hard to tell what species it is since it has been underpotted (and also probably it wants more direct sunlight), and thus it’s growth is a bit unusual. However, the key issue is the yellowish color at the bottom. If it is soft there, then there is rot started. If it is as firm as the rest of the plant, then it is fine.

If there is no rot, then carefully repot into a bigger pot with fresh dry well-draining cactus soil; keep it dry through the winter. Around late March, you can add some kelp meal to the soil and start watering on your normal schedule.

If it is rot, then to rescue the plant you will need to cut the top of the plant off above any rot and check to make sure the cutting has no rot on the cut part at all. Spray the cut end with household peroxide to help it heal. Let the cutting dry for 2 weeks, and then plant in fresh, dry soil in a bigger pot. Keep dry until late March, and then start watering on your regular schedule.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes,
Peter

Cactus – can you identify this cactus i cannot find it anywhere.

This cactus is 20+ ft with three arms

Fabian
Mortgage Finance Consultant

Fabian,

it is a Euphorbia ammak

Nice plant, but it looks like it needs planted in the ground so it can get even bigger.

Hap

A reader asks us to identify a plant for them. Can we figure out what the plant is? Stay tuned…

OK, there’s a photo, so it’s more likely than if there wasn’t one, that’s for sure. Let’s take a look.

But wait, that’s not all, there’s also a lovely bowl of fruit!

OK! Now, what was the question?

Hello!

Here is a plant that I have; it blooms with lovely red flowers. My
question is this:

For the first time in 10+ years, it has produced the 3 red fruits
that are in the second photo. Can you tell me what type of cactus
this is, and are they edible?

Thank you very much!
Barbara

Barbara,

It looks like you have a very nice Hylocereus. Which is also called Pitaya or Dragon Fruit, and yes it is edible (very tasty) at least as long as you haven’t used a toxic insecticide on it.

Take care,
Hap

[Ed.: Well done, Hap.]

I live in “Zone 13” in Southern California and also recently purchased a “Golden Candelabra”. It’s approx. 3′ high and is beginning to show a light brown discoloration. My “Sunset Western Garden Book” provides no info on this plant. How do I best care for it where I live? Indoors, outdoors? Direct light/indirect light? Is terra-cotta really best or will any type of pot do? Do I fertilize it, if so how often?

Thanks for any info you can provide.
Rosalinda

Rosalinda,
Assuming you have the Euphorbia “Ammak” you can grow this plant indoor or outdoor in Southern Cal. You can even plant it in the ground. It can take direct sun to light shade, however never move a plant out into direct light without hardening it off first or it can get a burn. Also, if you regularly get over 100 degrees in the summer, the plant would prefer some afternoon shade.

Terra cotta is best, because it breathes, and a fast-draining cactus and succulent mix is especially important. We recommend very little fertilizer for cactus and succulents, because slow growth makes for stronger plants, but any plant in a pot needs some added nutrients. We sell our own “cactus meal” mix of slow-release natural nutrients, and you can apply just once a year for slow healthy growth. For slightly faster growth, we recommend liquid kelp once a month through the growing season.

As for the light brown discoloration, if you’d like to send me an image I can take a look at it for you, but it’s hard to diagnose plants otherwise.
Peter

From Philadelphia, home of the Phillies, comes a question about a San Pedro cactus (Echinopsis pachanoi) in an office setting.

Peter,

Enclosed please find photos we discussed on yesterday. Please let me know what you suggest I do?

Thanks,
Michael

Michael,

The plant is not getting enough direct sun. I see it is a bright room, but how many hours of sun is actually reaching the plant? The reason it’s leaning is it is looking for sun. Also, the new growth will not be forming a strong woody core to help hold the plant upright. A weaker plant is more likely to lean.

I recommend putting it right in front of a sunny window. To straighten the plant now, basically you adjust the rootball in the pot to get the plant standing upright, and then we use bamboo stakes to tie it off for a month or two. You can also use tree stakes.

Let me know how it goes
Peter

Have you ever wondered why we call insects “pests”? No, I didn’t think so.

I noticed some white specks on one of my plants today ! Never saw them before. Are they insects? not sure. Attaching a picture…could you tell me how to get rid of these specks? If I take a damp cloth they come off, but it’s difficult to get in there and get them off….what is it?

thanks
Brian

Brian,

It is a bad case of Scale Insects. Think vampire barnacles… you can clean them off with a small paint brush or Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. Paint on the alcohol liberally and let it set a few moments and then gently wipe them off, the alcohol dissolves the shelac like glue that they have attached them selves to the plant. It may take a few cleanings to get them all and to kill off all the eggs. You can also spray with Neem Oil in a 1% dilution in water to kill them, but you will still need to clean them off with the alcohol after they are dead.

Good luck,

Hap

And I write extended headlines too.

Hello hello!
I was just at your lovely store Saturday and I purchased a few items for my succulents and cactus. I have done quite a bit of reading on the growing of these guys, as well as have a mother who has the most prolific, vivid green thumb. However, I am still a novice at growing my own cacti/succulents. I recently bought 1 cactus: a notocactus magnificus and a three succulents: an Anacampseros telephiastrum variegata [which I adore!], an Echeveria shaviana, and an Echeveria Topsy Turvy.

For the most part they are doing well. However, the Topsy Turvy has a long stem with a bloom hanging from it; the head of the bloom is hanging, yet to open, and has remained so for a few weeks. Also, the Ech. shaviana has a few rosette “petals” that are limp. They weren’t like this when I purchased them. I am worried about rot, though the rest of the plant is doing well.

I repotted all the plants into terra cotta pots of appropriate size with the Ultra soil bought from your Jungle. I placed some rocks on the surface of the soil. After repotting, I misted some nutrient spray on the rocks of the Echeverias and watered it in. I noticed that the soil dries out rather quickly with this heat, however I do not want to over water them.

Also with the purchase of the Nutrient Spray and Soil Conditioner – I don’t know the best way to use either product.

Can you offer some assistance please? I really am looking forward to growing some beautiful plants to decorate my classroom with. I also love growing things. 😀

Thank you so much for any insight you can offer.

With peace,
Ivette

That’s a lot to go through. The answer….
Read More…

From the comments on our post about Feng Shui Cactus comes this question:

hi.. i love cactus and i dont know about feng shui so i bougth a lot of cactus different ones and i put all then in my kitchen in the top of the closet i love to look at them and i dont feel anything but a friend of mine said id bad to have them inside a home and i start looking for information and i read so many diferent opinions i am confused… can you help me thanks why is bad to have then at home and in kitchen?
thanks elia

Now, personally, I think it is bad karma to ask a cactus grower why you should not have cactus in your home. But I answer the question all the same.

Elia,
It’s good that you love your cactus. We love cactus too. So clearly it’s not bad to have them in your home as cactus are living breathing growing lifeforms. Many cactus are even edible and are cultivated in kitchen gardens.
Peter

My echeveria elegans seems to be wilting. Bought it about two months ago. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steven

Now we get all kinds of questions here at the blog and at the nursery. Sometimes, though, we do need a little more information. For instance, in this case, all we know is that the echeveria is wilting. So let’s review what we know so far:

1. The plant in question is an Echeveria.
2. It’s wilting.

OK, good, that’s a good place to start. But we need more. We always need more. So here was my response:

Steven,
Can you send us a photo?
Also, here’s a couple questions to get you started:
How often are you watering?
How much sunlight?

Peter

I’ll let you know when we know more…

Hello,

A few months ago, I purchases several succulents at Cactus Jungle. A few are having some problems and I would like to know what you recommend I do.

I have attached a photo of a Sedum Matrona that has developed a powdery material at the junctures of the pedals.

Also attached is a photo of an Aloe Burii whose tips are drying up and turning red. Is this a natural development for this plant?

Thank you so much for your advice.

Regards,
Diane

[Note: photos deleted]

Diane,

The Sedum looks like it might have some aphids, tight in the growing tips, as well as a bit of powdery mildew damage. I recommend spraying it well with a good, but gentle jet from the hose and then treat with a powdery mildew treatment Neem or “Mildew Cure”. Or you can just cut off the infected leaves and tips. Sedum matrona can be cut back to just stumps when it looks ratty and it will re-sprout with fresh new growth.

The Aloe is just showing signs of summer dormancy, which is normal, it is native to a winter rain fall area of Africa so it sleeps in the summer and grows in the winter just like most California natives. It will perk up and start growing with vigor this winter once the rains start. 

Take care,
Hap

Hi,

What can I do to save it?

I have been watering it more regularly (every 2 weeks)

I just gave it food.

It gets plenty of sun.

– Mike

That’s kind of like a poem. I like it. Shall we answer? Well, Hap already has:

Hap

Hi guys,

I have a question for you about a beautiful Ferocactus latispinus that I purchased from you in February. The plant had been living at your shop, on one of the outdoor racks, for many months through the Berkeley winter. About a week after I bought it I moved to Los Angeles…en route to New Zealand. Unfortunately, the cactus had to stay behind in southern California, where it is living with my mom. About 5 days after we (the cactus and I) arrived in LA I noticed that parts of the plants were experiencing what looked like bleaching or loss of pigment. It was warm in LA, but not too hot, and for acclimation reasons I had put the plant in an area where it would get some direct but mostly filtered light. I thought the bleaching would be a temporary effect of the transition to a warmer and/or brighter setting, and that the pigment would return, but my mom just sent me some photos and it looks like those parts of the plant are still quite pale…about the color of the pale/yellow form of Euphorbia ammak v. variegata. This concerns me, but the cactus does appear to be (somewhat) “happy” as it is growing and the region of new growth on the top of the plant is the deep green color I’d expect. Can you explain what I’m seeing? This little guy is my favorite plant and I want to do whatever I can to keep him healthy and happy. I’d send a picture but my mom doesn’t have a digital camera. If you need a pic for proper diagnosis I can arrange for one to be taken. Thanks very much for your help! Hope all is going well at the jungle.

Best
Yuri
Department of Zoology
University of Otago
New Zealand

Yuri,

It sounds like the bleached parts are a sign of sunburn, it most likely happened by the north facing side suddenly getting rotated to face south after the move and the skin cells that were not ready for UV getting a good zap. It will take a long time to heal up and if it was a bad burn it may convert the burned areas to “bark” rather than green skin… but the chlorophyll may still recover. As long as the growing tip at the crown looks green and healthy, the plant will eventually grow out it though it may have scars.

Take care,

Hap

p.s. does your post-doc in zoology get you out to see the Tuatara? They are so cool! I want to meet one someday.

Cactus Jungle: Greetings,
I am very worried about 12 bamboo plants (Psuedosasa japonica) I bought from you a little less than a year ago, which I have planted outdoors in large redwood planters in an alley behind my house in Noe Valley, SF. The alley is fairly narrow E-W running – the plants get direct sun during the mid-day hours because the hill I’m on slants towards the south. I water them once every week or two, and this spring have given them one dose of fish emulsion. While there are new shoots coming up at the base of the plants, a noticeable portion of the leaves are beginning to yellow or brown – worrisome during the fair springtime weather. Additionally, there is an apdhid infestation on the plants – they exude an oily residue covering the leaves. Do you have any experience with this problem?

I have invested both time and money into these plants and am not thrilled to see them fail in less than a year. Please see the attached jpegs: I would be most grateful if you have any advice or information which would help me care for the plants. As far as I can tell the species is appropriate for the climate, but let me know.
Many thanks,
Benjamin

Benjamin,

The yellowing leaves is from stress, from the aphids (sucking like
vampires on the leaves) and the fact we have had a very dry spring and
the plants are thirsty. Aphids are usually not a problem if the plant is
getting enough water and nutrients, all though they are often an issue
while recently planted plants are getting established. As your plants
mature they will become less prone to aphid problems.

You should spray the aphids off with a blast of water from the hose.
There are easily washed off and be a soft insect are usually fatally
injured by a good jet of water. You can also use insecticidal soap or
Neem Oil, but only use them after our “hot spell” that has just started,
is over. Hot weather and insecticides are a bad combination for your
plants! Spray in the evening, not during the day or morning as the soap
and or Neem Oil can cause leaf burn in the hot sun. I would recommend
using a hose end sprayer and really coating the leaves to kill off the
remaining aphids and eggs glued on to the leaves.

In a raised wood planter like yours, the bamboo is going to need a bit
more water than if it was in the ground (where its roots could pull in
moisture from all around). The wood breaths and so the soil inside dries
out faster. Water well, at least once a week, dry soil can be hard to
re-wet, so a slow soaking with a trickle of water is usually best, a
soaker hose ran down the length of your planter, twining between the
plants is an easy way to water your bamboo. Give it more water if it is
warm and windy, as this dries the bamboo out faster through
transpiration in the leaves. After a year in the ground you should be
able to water less, since the plants will have better established root
systems to pull in available water, but remember that raised beds always
take more irrigation.

They should “Out Grow” the aphids and stress pretty quickly as long as
our projected drought holds off long enough for them to get established.
Psuedosasa japonica is a great drought tolerant bamboo but like all
young things needs a bit of care to grow up strong enough to face the
big, bad world… I think your will take off with a bit more water and
knocking down the aphid infestation.

Good Luck,

Hap

Q: Hi there,
I have a Pachypodium lamerei (I am pretty sure based on the pics from your site) from you guys that I have had for about one or two years. It fell over!!! It looks like the base of it was too skinny for it’s thicker top. What can I do? I love it, the leaves look healthy and it never looked sad to me, so it was a surprise when it just fell over. I don’t over water it, if anything I under water it. Any suggestions?

I really appreciate it,
Heather

Heather,

Could you email us a photo of the plant and a close up of the base where it fell over? If not please bring it by the nursery so we can take a look it. Pachypodiums will sometimes loose their roots to an infection over the winter, if that is the case, it will need treatment and help regrowing roots. It could also just need to be re-potted in a larger pot with fresh soil.

Take care,
Hap

Resolution: They brought the plant in, and it wasn’t too skinny, and the roots hadn’t rotted. The base had rotted from an infection, and the plant was dead. We were sorry we couldn’t help save it. It appeared they had really underwatered it. We recommend watering every 2 weeks.

Q: We planted this cactus over 10 years ago, and the other day were surprised to see a stalk growing out of it. Do you know what types of cactus this is? And is it likely to ever do this again? We live in San Carlos. I would be interested in getting another one.

Many thanks!
Colleen

A: Colleen,

Your “cactus” is actually a Yucca, most likely Yucca whipplei (a wonderful California native) or perhaps Yucca rostrata. They look very similar and there is not enough detail in you photos for me to be sure… however my guess is yours is Yucca whipplei. If it is, this bloom will be it’s last, as the rosette that blooms dies after it is done blooming and hopefully setting seed (like it’s relatives Agave’s).

It will sometimes “pup” around the base and those will grow in to replace the “mother” rosette, but not always. If it is Yucca rostrata, it will not die, but will grow several new rosettes and eventually become a multibranched tree yucca and will bloom again when it has enough energy stored up to do so. Either way yours is a great looking plant and congratulations in getting it to bloom! It should bloom over the next few months and will look spectacular!

Take care,
Hap

Q: Hi Peter,

Wondering if running the tillandsia under water till it’s all wet is enough, or does it need soaking? I’m doing this twice a week, and it’s cohabiting with a cymbidium under the eaves on my deck.

It’s like having a pet – I can bring it in for a bath, talk to it, walk it around & put it back or put it anywhere else! What fun.

I’ll get some liquid kelp too.

Phyllis

A: Phyllis,

The key to growing tillandsias is what you say when you talk to them. I prefer to read to them from Vonnegut.

Running it under water twice a week is enough – it doesn’t need to soak but once a month with the kelp.

You can even mist it 3 times per week, or leave it in a bathroom where it gets light misting every day.

It’s all good.

Peter