Euphorbia in Harvard Square across from Lizzie’s Ice Cream. It was delicious. And the Euphorbia is nice too. I hope they bring it in for winter. It gets cold in the Northeast.
Euphorbia in Harvard Square across from Lizzie’s Ice Cream. It was delicious. And the Euphorbia is nice too. I hope they bring it in for winter. It gets cold in the Northeast.
Denmoza rhodacantha is interesting, don’t you think? Strange tubular flowers. Curved spines. And it turns out it doesn’t get much bigger around than this, but it will get taller. Interesting!
From the flower it is clear that it is related to the Oreocereuses, wouldn’t you agree?
Thanks to Anne we are having a lot of success this year with our carnivorous plants!
Here we have 3 plants and some of Anne’s great new basic care and prop info to go with it. Enjoy!
Dionaea muscipula “Dente” is the small-toothed Venus Fly Trap of lore. Will eat rats and pigeons when it has grown big enough. Which should be any minute now.
Dionea (Venus Fly Trap): Grow using the tray method year round. Hardy outside year round in the Bay Area and can take full sun once hardened off.
Sarracenia purpurea is a lower growing Pitcher Plant from the swamps of the Allegheny Mountains. I wonder if that’s true? No, sadly it’s not. There are no swamps once you get high enough up in the Alleghenys. Good to know.
Sarracenia (American, or Temperate, Pitcher Plant): Grow using the tray method year round. Hardy outside year round in the Bay Area and can take full sun once hardened off.
Soil: equal parts peat, sand, and pumice
Pinguicula moctezumae is a Butterwort from Mexico. It looks like it has had a hardy meal.
Pinguicula (Butterwort): The species that we currently carry, Pinguicula moctezumae, is a Mexican species which grows in an environment where it has warm wet summers and cool dry winters.
Thanks, Anne for all the great info!
Nose and Paw
Keith lays the groundwork. I see landscape fabric and piping. Nice start!
It looks like Keith has picked up a pipe and is tooting his own horn.
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Ophiopogon planiscapus “Black Beard”‘
Native to Japan
Evergreen LilySun: Full Sun
Water: Moderate
Size: 12″Slow growing, tight clumps of arching silky black grass-like blades. 14″ bloom spikes with white flowers. Hardy to 5F.
You can certainly see the quality of the flowers that would lead one to place these little grass-like plants in the Lily Family (Liliaceae).
Nicole got some Marigolds to add to a small organic container garden and she packed them very carefully for the ride home.
By the way, meet our latest Cactus Jungle associate, Nicole!
California Native
Evergreen Shrub
Sun: Full Sun to Part Shade
Water: Low once established
Size: Bushy, erect stems 4 ft. to 6 ft.
The butterflies flock to the small silvery pink flowers that cover the plant throughout the summer. Good for hedges and along fences. Hardy to 10°F.
Maybe tomorrow I’ll get back to posting some cactus and some succulents on this here so-called Cactus Blog. Who knows!
Lotus crassifolius v. otayensis is the California native lotus that comes from Otay Mountain.
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Lotus crassifolius var. otayensis
Otay Mountain LotusCalifornia
Herbaceous perennialSun: Moderate to Full
Water: Low to Moderate
Size: 3 feetFurry grey upright stems, clusters of purple and white pea-sized flowers in spring, grey-green oblong leaves. Endemic to California.
They sure do look like pea flowers. I wonder if this is in the pea family?
It is! It is in the Pea Family – Fabaceae.
Did I forget to mention that Otay Mtn. is in San Diego County? Sounds like a desert down there.
Hi Peter – any help identifying this cactus would be much appreciated; we’ve had it for so long and it is finally blooming after a good cold rest last winter. Thanks!
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-Marion
Marion,
The lovely blooming cactus is a Parodia ottonis. It’s probably time to repot into a larger pot.
Nice!
Peter
Earlier today I posted a botanical illustration from the Smithsonian Collection. Science!
And here we find an aircraft from the Smithsonian Collection.
Photo: Eric Long / Smithsonian National Air and Space MuseumIt goes without saying that the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum has some of the neatest collection of planes in the world… Designed and built by famed aircraft modeler Frank Ehling in the 1970s, they are the smallest flying models the Museum owns.
It’s a fly-powered aircraft, indeed. Science!
(h/t the straight dope)
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Pereskia pereskia (Cactaceae)
Plate Number: 1722
Publication: The Cactaceae Vol. 1 Pl 2, Figs 1,2 and 3
Collection: M. Simon, U.S.A., New York; flowering branch, fruits.
Artist: Eaton, Mary Emily – Date unknown – watercolorFrom the Catalog of Botanical Illustrations, Department of Botany, Smithsonian Institution
© Smithsonian Institution
This cactus is now properly named Pereskia aculeata, P. Miller 1768. It’s from the Caribbean but can also sometimes be found in Florida. The pink flowers are fragrant and the fruit is edible. It is a climbing, semi-vining cactus with true spines and true non-succulent leaves.
Peter
Are you able to identify this one? It has the double heads and is really getting quite large. You’re welcome to post it, if you think it share-worthy.
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Thanks!
Amy
Amy,
Beautiful photo! I think your Mammillaria might be Mammillaria grusonii. That’s my best guess.
Thanks for sharing!
Peter
Cotyledon orbiculata v. spuria has gorgeous flowers this time of year. Wow!
And then there’s the pest problem. Aphids. Don’t scroll down if you don’t want to see the gruesome little buggies in closeup. But just so you know, these are on a different plant than the one above.
As it is, aphids love succulent blooms, especially those in the Crassula Family (Crassulaceae) like Cotyledons and Echeverias. Often when the blooms get aphids I will just cut the bloom stalk off and be done with it. In the case of the flowers below, though, they are too pretty for that and too early in the bloom cycle, so we dipped a soft paintbrush in rubbing alcohol and very carefully wiped them off the flowers. Then we sprayed the stalk and area below the flowers with neem oil to try to prevent them from coming back. Good luck!
So now we get to the aphid picture. Turn away!
Oh. You looked. OK then.
Tokyo DIY Gardening has discovered an amazing little Peanut Cactus (Echinopsis chamaecereus) clinging to the pavement.
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Volunteer Cactus in Akishima, Tokyo.
Sweet!
The Easter Lily Cactuses used to all be Lobivias, except this one which was never known as a Lobivia.
Echinopsis leucantha
This one used to be called Echinopsis melapotamica. Good to know!
Here’s a closeup looking deep inside the flower.
Wow! Interesting.
The cactus will get only around 5″ in diameter, and will grow to 14″ tall. They are generally solitary, but they do have huge wild spines. You can see a hint of that in the top picture, if you can look past those crazy beautiful flowers.
Found in nature in Argentina. Lucky Argentinians.
Euphorbia sap in the eye in Iowa?
Ow.
Let that be a lesson to you all to not get Euphorbia sap in your eye. Don’t get it on your hands and if you do wash your hands thoroughly and immediately. Don’t wait ’til later because you will have forgotten long enough to touch your eye and then look at what happens.
By the way, don’t touch your lips either.
In the meantime, here’s a Euphorbia picture.
Euphorbia lactea “Crest”
The secret of how I display Airplants in my own home.
That’s Bob’s fish tank in the background. Bob; that is the fish is Bob.
We have a couple more Osteospermums out at the nursery. These many Cape Daisies are both pretty and easy to grow and hardy. And colorful. And both bloomful for many months on end and in the Aster Family (Asteraceae) and prolific too.
That’s enough descriptions, lets see the flowers!
Osteospermum “Soprano White”
Osteospermum “Zion Red”
I was shopping earlier today and loved your nursery. Felt the plants were well cared for and a pleasure to visit the nursery. The succulents are in a small decorative wooden wheelbarrow.
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Thanks so much for the help and I will see you again.
Carol
Thanks, Carol!
And just for fun – let’s name them from left to right. “Moonstone”, Euphorbia, Oscularia, Aloe, Crassula. That was fun!
Hi there,
We bought my mammillaria at Cactus Jungle about four years ago, and it has been pretty healthy since then, though it never flowered since we got it (despite fertilizing).
About a week or two ago after watering it, it started to get smaller and paler, almost like it is collapsing in on itself. As pictured, it is now half the size it was before the last time I watered it. I always err on the side of not watering it since I know overwatering can kill them, but I’m not sure what went wrong this time. I usually water it every four weeks or so (sometimes longer). Is my cactus salvageable, and do you folks have any suggestions for reviving it?
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I haven’t fertilized it yet this year, so that is also an option. I live in an apartment that I know doesn’t get as much light as the cactus needs, but it hasn’t proven to be an issue until now.
Any advice is welcome and appreciated. Thanks for your time!
Lisa
Lisa,
I don’t think the plant is savable. It’s hard to tell for sure from the photo, so if you want to bring it in to the nursery we can take a look and see what we can do to try and save it.
You were probably watering the correct amount for not getting a lot of light, however those conditions generally mean that a cactus will have a limited life. So 4 years without a lot of sun seems like you did a good job keeping it healthy as long as you could.
If you want we can suggest a spiny plant that can handle lower light levels to replace it.
Peter
Hi Peter,
I just potted a large piece from a gi-normous Peruvian apple cactus that my brother has growing in his yard in Long Beach. He cut the piece and gave it to me for Christmas and it has been drying out in in my garage since then. I thought I had left it too long, but the top sections seem fleshy and fine, with only the bottom cut part being nice a dried out. So, I potted it this morning, mixing in some of the soil I bought from you. My question is, should I water it now, or should I wait for several more weeks? Should I fertilize it soon? I have some of the kelp product.![]()
My sister took a smaller piece last year and has it growing inside in her apartment in NYC! It’s doing fine (though no fruit yet…ever?). When she started, she waited 4-6 weeks for the cut to dry out, then potted it. She waited another month before watering it — based on internet research.
The fruit is really good!
Thanks,
Brookeps, I love receiving the newsletter and seeing all the names and photos of the plants.
Brooke,
It looks like the Cereus is doing well. If you potted it in our soil you don’t need to fertilize for a year. In general after planting a cactus cutting you want to wait at least a week before watering. Since you have Aeoniums planted in there with it you will need to water sometime in the next 2 weeks, and that’s OK.
Your sister’s plant in NY should grow fine if its in a sunny window, but it is unlikely to bloom. The flowers are pollinated by bats, so even if it does flower she would need to hand pollinate to get fruit (assuming she doesn’t have any bats in her apartment. I know it’s New York, but still…)
We don’t get fruit on ours here in the flats of Berkeley since we also don’t have bats, however up in the hills they do have bats and they do get fruit. Delicious fruit.
Peter
We’re very excited to see that one of our large Yucca rostratas is in full bloom!
This is not really the largest we have right now, but hopefully this means the single head at the top of this 3ft. tree will start to split and then maybe it will be a 2 head Yucca! Or even a 3 head Yucca? Maybe!
Here are pictures of 5 different individuals, all the same species, in full bloom. So much variation! They are all Parodia rutilans. Here I blogged another Parodia that had significant variation as well.
And finally what we have here is what we have identified as Notocactus roseiflorus, which my copy of Anderson insists is also Parodia rutilans.
That sure is a lot of natural variation for today! And to be clear, those really were all in bloom and fully open yesterday all at the same time. Nice!
Do we carry cactus mugs? No. We do not. But here, I’ve found one anyway.
I would buy them for myself but I don’t like raised designs on my drinking implements.
Did you know that there were plants in bloom this weekend? Maybe you thought they would all wilt in this heat, but No! Beautiful flowers popping up all over! And not just from the cactus. Although, especially from the cactus this weekend. Cactus flowers like the heat. But wait, this isn’t a post about cactus flowers. This is a post about California Native Perennials. Wildflowers! First up…. Fleabane!
Erigeron glaucus
Seaside Daisy, Fleabane
N. California Coastal Natuve
Evergreen Perennial
Sun: Sun
Water: Moderate
Size: 6-12″
Clay tolerant, found on clay coastal bluffs. A great butterfly plant, mixes well with coastal sages and monkey flowers. Lavender flowers spring through summer when it could use a little extra water. Hardy to 20F.
Salvia “Winifred Gilman”
Musk Sage
California Native
Evergreen perennial/shrub
Sun: Full Sun
Water: Low
Size: 3 to 4 ft.
Fragrant grey-green leaves. Strongly fragrant whorls of lavender blue flowers. Deer resistant, attracts butterflies. Hardy to 10F.
The whippet Benjamin
We are sending this to you in hope you can help. Mr. Stewart was not able to offer any help.
Jo
Hello Mr. Stewart,
My name is Jo Reynolds. I have a cactus given to me by a grandson on his first Mother’s Day. He passed away at 8. He would be 21 now so the plant is very dear. We used to have a florist who would repot as needed but they have gone out of business. It became so pot bound (cracked the pot) that we tried to repot it. Used cactus soil and one one size larger pot. The plant has many thumb sized, very prickly parts, and a number have turned very brown and opened up to a dead center. We would like to have someone with much more knowledge than us look at it and advise us. We live in Frederick County. Maybe some of the green shoots could be saved. Any help/advice you could give us would be appreciated. We have attached a picture of the poor thing.
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John and Jo
Jo,
The news is not good, though there is still some hope. The soil you used looks too rich for cactus – too much bark in it. And it looks like the root-bound plant might have been potted with the roots still wound. The change as such was a shock to the plant, and most of the stems are not salvageable. However there are a few still-green stems that might be able to be saved. You will need to do some surgery, cutting them off from the rest of the plant.
In general you want to cut above any rot so that the fresh cut will be clean, no brown spots. Spray with hydrogen peroxide to help it heal, and let it callous over for a week. Then you will want to plant it in dry fast-draining cactus soil and not water for another 2 weeks. Make sure there are still no brown spots when you plant it. If any develop you will need to cut it higher up until again there is fresh clean flesh. If that doesn’t work then the infection has spread too far.
If you need cactus soil, we do ship our soil in 2 gallon boxes. You can call us at the nursery and we can send that off.
Peter